Today I did these great climbs:
footstool left / S 4a
8m. The wide crack that passes to the left of the tall tooth is a bit of a struggle at the bottom and manages to feel rather committing at the top when passing the overhang. This gets VD in BMC guide, left as S (Rock fax) as there are log book ticks. © ROCKFAX
keep corner / S 4a *
12m. The groove left of the jutting buttress was popular in antiquity, hence the polish. Awkward but well-protected and a nice pitch. The last section is easier than it looks from below. This gets HVD in BMC guide, left as S (Rock fax) as there are log book ticks. © ROCKFAX
the fly walk / S 4a *
10m. The battered cracks in the right wall are worth doing to ledges (not bridging to the opposite wall of the groove is probably worth VS 4b), then finish out right. The groove direct is Main Corner - S 4a but sadly avoiding the cracks of The Flywalk is practically impossible. © ROCKFAX
the nithin / S 4a *
12m. The right-hand crack in the recess (awkward) to a ledge and the wide crack on the left. The arete direct is HS 4a. © ROCKFAX
studio / HS 4b **
12m. Climb the good crack then mantelshelf rightwards (hard but safe) or layback (easier but bolder) then follow the cracks only. Following the left-hand crack is harder. This get S 4a in BMC Kinder guide left as HS (Rockfax) due to log book ticks. © ROCKFAX
Castle naze
the fly walk and the nithin
